The Japanese Edit: Comoli and Auralee
Trunk is perhaps best known for a certain style of tailoring - typically Italian, formal but not fussy, unstructured yet elegant. Brands such as Boglioli, Lardini and Caruso per Trunk are central to our selection each season, however we also search constantly for something a bit more contemporary, a bit more on the progressive side. We tend to gravitate towards garments with a root in classicism, but which subvert our general conceptions of fabric, fit and proportion. Naturally, Japan is a rich seam when it comes to such things, and many Japanese brands have made a fine art of reinterpreting typical western garments, such as sport coats, or military outerwear. Two such brands are Comoli and Auralee.
Tokyo-based Comoli is now in its third season at Trunk, and in that short time it has become a firm favourite of ours. Headed up by designer Keijiro Komori, Comoli is a great representation of this new wave of Japanese brands - European in influence, Japanese in execution. Classic three-button jackets are deconstructed and given a slightly boxy cut, while outerwear fuses influences old and new - raglan sleeves and boiled melton wool meet contemporary, tailored shapes. This season we have a blazer, a stand collar jacket, and some loose-cut easy pants, all rendered in a robust high-count jersey. Elsewhere we have a pair of moto racer-inspired jackets cut from lightweight melton wool, and the brand's 'Cavalier' coat - a stately knee-length overcoat with a covered button placket and neat collar.
New to Trunk this season is Auralee - also hailing from Tokyo - a brand which under the guidance of founder and designer Ryota Iwai has gained an impressive amount of attention in just a short time. Like Comoli it draws heavily from western culture in its designs, but with a greater emphasis on militaria and workwear. From Auralee this season we have an unstructured melton wool jacket with matching easy pants, each available in a rich navy or a mossy green. But perhaps where the brand really stands out is with its outerwear. Pictured here is the 'flight parka' - a shorter, more boxy take on the military staple, again cut from a soft, rich melton wool. We also have a reinterpretation of the duffle coat which has some nice modern touches, such as a discrete press stud fastening and slightly exaggerated proportions.
Japan has long been the world leader in innovative, unconventional design, so it stands to reason that this is where we turn to each buying season. We are proud to be the sole European stockist of both Auralee and Comoli, and to bring these exciting, vital young brands to a new London audience.