“Natural, relaxed elegance was the mood of our spring/summer 2020 collection,” says Yasuto Kamoshita, founder of the Japanese label Camoshita, sitting outside of our Trunk store on Chiltern Street last weekend, enjoying the spring sun and a coffee from the Monocle Cafe. He’s in town to introduce us to his latest collection — and no doubt about it, it has your summer wardrobe all wrapped up. We took 5 minutes to catch up with him about the new Camoshita pieces that dropped into our stores and at Trunk online this week.
His sartorial missive saw him look to vintage markets and classic films for inspiration this season; it culminated in a preppy mix of casualwear pieces and laid-back tailoring; think The Talented Mr Ripley and Call Me By Your Name meets Rebel Without a Cause. Lightweight cotton-silk trousers are paired with linen camp collar shirts and short-sleeved sweaters that are perfect for post-sunset dinners by the beach; an overshirt in a brown check is the ultimate packing piece for a versatile vacation wardrobe. “I wanted to create an overshirt with playfulness,” he says. “I like to wear it on its own but as a blouson, worn over a simple T-shirt, it feels very contemporary.”
“I wanted to create an overshirt with playfulness.”
Air Force Blue suiting, meanwhile, was crafted from a textured linen-mix, with unstructured shoulders and a drapey construction that are as ideal worn on a hot day in the city as on a balmy Sicilian evening or at a warm-weather wedding. “I wanted to create softness to the double-breasted suits,” says Kamoshita. “So I gravitated towards natural hues than serious business-like shades, combining a cosmopolitan silhouette with the earthy colours of the countryside that made the collection more relaxed,” he says.
Indeed, the tonal colour palette is infinitely low-key but elegant; these pieces can be packed into a case and mixed and matched for the duration of a trip — simply add either crisp white tennis sneakers (like those worn by Jude Law in Ripley, no less) or a suede summer loafer (try Alden’s unlined Penny loafers) and you’ll be set for a stylish week.
“Colour is one of the most important elements of this collection,” he says. “I like to style the jacket with trousers in a tonal palette rather than breaking up the colours,” he says, before suggesting we pair the beige chinos with the beige and black striped sweater — a playful update on the classic Breton stripe — and the navy linen shirt with the grey-blue trousers. “Add an earthy coloured accessory to add some extra fun into the look,” he says. We recommend an Ichizawa canvas tote bag, which has plenty of room for storing sunglasses and lotion and will add an extra layer of texture.
As with all of Camoshita collections, fabric is key; this season, Kamoshita opted for sustainable, natural fibres like cotton, linen and wool, which are breathable to keep you cool in warmer weathers. “I strive to create pieces that will stay in someone's wardrobe for their lifetime,” he says. “Items that you would bring out of the closet again and again, rather than just for a season.” Buy now, wear forever — after all, who wouldn’t want to look like Mr Ripley all summer long?